Before arriving in Geiranger, we’d spotted the Skageflå hike and knew we absolutely wanted to do it! That said, we won’t lie—we did tear our hair out a bit trying to figure out the logistics of this route… Because, yes, the route isn’t a loop, so you have to find a way to get to the starting point (a boat is required) or be prepared to walk (a really long way). Anyway, after looking into the different options for getting a closer look at the Seven Sisters waterfall, we decided to put together a detailed article explaining the various options and the cost associated with each one.
Skageflå: A Look at This Historic Farm with a Unique View
It’s hard to imagine that anyone ever chose this place to live. And yet, about 250 meters above the Geirangerfjord, on a small terrace wedged between the cliffs, lies Skageflå, one of the most famous old mountain farms in the Geiranger region. For several centuries, families lived here, cultivating a few plots of land and, above all, raising livestock. The path we take today from Skagehola (the boat dock on the fjord) probably doesn’t look much like the one the former residents used. It takes about 45 minutes to hike up to the farm along a very steep trail that’s well-equipped with steps and handrails. In the past, getting there was certainly much more of a challenge. The “captain” of our little boat made us laugh when he told us that, according to legend, the farmer would remove the ladders whenever the tax collector came to collect what was owed…
Today, the place has been restored, and I must admit I don’t know exactly how it all works… When you book a boat arrival (transfer or cruise), there’s a 50 NOK fee that’s apparently paid to the farm owner as a “visitor’s fee.” But if you come on foot, there’s absolutely nothing to pay. (We’ll give you more details on these points later in the article.) In short, I’m not entirely sure how the place is managed, but what’s certain is that it remains private property. So it’s best to keep in mind that you’re not visiting an open-air museum, but rather an old farm whose owners allow visitors access. Today, Skageflå is enjoying a sort of second life, focused more on heritage and tourism than on agriculture.
Skageflå Hiking Trail
Before we get into the “logistical” details (which we’ll cover next), we’d like to describe the hike along the “official” route—that is, from the ferry terminal to Geiranger. To see the hiking options, scroll down.
Hike to the Farm
When you arrive at the small landing stage at Skagehola, you soon find yourself wondering how the farmers used to get up to their farm before the current facilities were built. You literally find yourself disembarking at the foot of a cliff, and the climb involves taking large steps carved into the rock.
Note: I’d read all sorts of things online about this climb before, and I was a little worried about how I—with my fear of heights—would handle it. So here’s a quick message to put your mind at ease: yes, it’s really very steep and “exposed,” but the area is also very well secured with railings on all the sections that could potentially be dangerous. A handrail is also installed on the cliff side to make the climb a little easier. That said, it’s still very steep, and there’s no doubt it’ll give your thighs a good workout (and get your heart pumping). But there’s really no need to worry about the “danger” of the climb.
The Skageflå Farm
It took us about thirty minutes to reach the Skagefla farm, and to say the least, the farmers back then chose a pretty good spot for it! The farm itself is very pretty with its green roof, but the most impressive thing is the breathtaking view of the Seven Sisters waterfall, which is right across from it!
Since we’d taken the first shuttle of the morning (9 a.m.), there were only five of us at the farm, and we have to admit it was really nice to just settle in here, stroll around a bit, and enjoy the view without too many people around. That’s because the larger boats arrive about 30 minutes after the shuttle (I’ll give you the details on the different modes of transportation below), and we clearly saw the difference in crowd levels around 10:15 a.m. In short, to enjoy the place “without anyone else around,” we strongly recommend taking the first boat of the morning.
Well, the crowd is still pretty small—it’s not like cruise ships are docking here or anything… Maybe 20–30 people at most, but let’s just say it’s even more fun if there are only five of us.
Speaking of ocean liners, we had a front-row seat to watch a huge cruise ship arrive in the Geirangerfjord. We’ve never been on a cruise (and probably never will), and when you see the size of these behemoths, you can’t help but wonder if this kind of tourism is really sustainable… We’ll come back to this in a future post, but just imagine for a moment: In Geiranger, a small village of 215 residents, 5,000 to 8,000 people disembarking all at once! Having run into the people on board that ship when we returned from our hike, I can tell you it feels pretty weird. Anyway…
Hike to Homlungsætra
Once you reach the farm, you’re not quite done with the climb yet. In fact, the hardest part is still ahead. 😉 But hey, the view along the entire route is so beautiful that, honestly, it makes the climb really worth it. The highest point of the hike is the small hamlet of Homlungsaetra, a former mountain pasture located at an elevation of 524 meters. Here, you’re truly in what you might call a postcard-perfect setting, and the place clearly invites you to linger a bit.
In fact, we met several hikers who had come on foot from Geiranger and who seemed to want to turn back here (rather than continue down to Skagefla). We can understand that choice, but we still recommended that they continue a few more meters to the various lookout points, which are located just a few hundred meters from the little houses.
If you’re coming up the hill, we strongly recommend that you stop there! In our opinion, these are the most beautiful viewpoints along the walk! We actually took advantage of the spot to have a little picnic.
Note: I’ve marked the various viewpoints on the hiking map below.
The crossing and descent to Geiranger
From the Homlungsætra mountain pasture, we’ve officially finished the climb and are beginning the relatively long traverse and descent toward Geiranger. I’ll admit that this section was perhaps the least “interesting” part of the hike, since we’re mostly in the forest and so we don’t really get to enjoy the view. But the trail is perfectly marked and well-maintained, and it’s a really pleasant walk.
That said, there are still a few beautiful views toward the end of the hike. Just before reaching the small hamlet of Homlung, you come to a sort of large, open meadow from which you have a magnificent view of the end of the Geirangerfjord and the village of Geiranger.
Once you arrive in Homlung, you leave the trails behind for good and follow the paved road for about 2 km to return to downtown Geiranger.
Practical Information About the Hike from Skageflå to Geiranger
The hike from Skagefla to Geiranger isn’t what you’d call “difficult,” but we still recommend being in good physical shape. The first climb is really steep and requires some stamina. 😉 Getting off the boat is a bit of an adventure in itself (at least with the dog, it wasn’t that easy), and it’s best to be comfortable with the idea of stepping over the side of a (moving) boat and jumping onto the rock. Unless I’m mistaken, the “cruise” boat is larger, and they bring out a small ladder to get off the boat.
We had absolutely no trouble getting off the boat, but let’s just say we wondered if it might sometimes pose a few problems… We imagined what it would have been like if our parents (in their 70s) had been there—the hike would probably have been fine, but getting off the boat might have been a little trickier. (I hope they don’t read this and get offended, haha.)
As far as navigation goes, there aren’t many questions to ask yourself. There’s only one path, and it’s clearly marked. No risk of getting lost! That said, it might be a good idea to have the map available offline (using AllTrails, for example), since there’s no cell service along much of the route.
If, like us, you’re doing the hike as a “one-way” trip, you’ll be walking about 8 km with 740 meters of elevation gain. The hike takes about 4 hours, but believe me, it’s easy to spend 5 to 6 hours on this trail—the scenery is that beautiful!
Planning Your Hike in Skageflå—Options (and the Associated Budget)
Now that I’ve told you about the route, let’s take a look at the different options for doing this hike. As you’ll see, there are plenty of possible options (and combinations). But this is Norway, after all, so if you want to combine the hike with a cruise, you’ll have to dig a little deeper into your pockets. 😉
Take a scenic cruise to explore the Geirangerfjord and the Seven Sisters Waterfall
When you’re walking around Geiranger, ads for the “official” company are everywhere, and at first we honestly thought that was the only option. The company is called Geiranger FjordService, and they offer short cruises of about 30 minutes through the Geirangerfjord, dropping you off at the dock at the foot of Skagefla. You can book directly on-site or through their website.
The short boat ride and drop-off at the dock cost 660 NOK (610 NOK for the boat ride and 50 NOK for the farm entrance fee) (about 60€) per person. This price also includes a return trip by boat (if you don’t want to hike the entire trail but simply want to go up to the farm).
These cruises run from roughly late June to late October. You can find detailed schedules on their website. You can bring your dog on all cruises. There is no charge for bringing your dog.
Take a direct “shuttle” boat
Let’s be honest, when we saw the €60 price tag for the boat cruise, we were really on the fence… For the two of us, that came to a total of €60, which seemed like a lot to pay for a hike. To tell you the truth, we’d actually started thinking about walking there and back… But in the end, some online research led us to this shuttle service. Forget the idea of a cruise—an inflatable boat takes you straight to the dock. The crossing only takes a few minutes, and you don’t actually get close to the waterfall itself (you do pass by it, but given the speed of the boat, it’s best not to blink). Here, the crossing costs 335 NOK (285 NOK for the boat and 50 NOK for the farm admission fee). That comes out to 31€ per person. This price seemed more reasonable to us, so we opted for this option. To make a reservation, you can do so at their office located here or through their website.
Note: The boats used for the shuttle service are called RIBs (high-speed boats). You can also book a 75-minute cruise on these boats that will take you right “through the waterfall” and let you see Skagefla from below. We didn’t go with this option, but having gotten a little taste of these ultra-fast boats, it must be a really fun tour (and a bit of an adrenaline rush) 😉 Check out the details on GetYourGuide
Option to take a round-trip boat ride to “shorten” the hike
Whether you choose the shuttle service or the “cruise” options, in both cases it’s possible to return by boat and avoid walking back to Geiranger. However, if you choose the shuttle, it’s important to note that you’ll have to pay for the crossing a second time (375 NOK), whereas the return trip is included in the “cruise” options at 610 NOK. So if you plan to skip the entire walk and return by boat, it will be more cost-effective to book the “cruise” option.
Do (almost) everything on foot (the cheapest option)
This last option is obviously the cheapest (and let’s be honest, we considered it too);). Here, the plan is simple: you make a round trip from Geiranger. If you do the whole thing on foot, there’s absolutely nothing to pay (no boat fare, no “farm access fee”). That said, I won’t sugarcoat it—it’s a pretty tough hike. In total, the round trip to the farm is about 14 km with 1,200 meters of elevation gain (both uphill and downhill). It’s definitely doable, but it’s impossible to make it a loop, so you’ll follow the same route on the way there and back. As for us, we were ultimately very happy with our decision to take the boat (at first we thought we wouldn’t be able to bring the dog, which is why we’d considered doing the whole thing on foot). The boat really adds variety to the route and, in our opinion, is an integral part of the day’s experience.
Note: If you’re coming on foot, we recommend walking as far as the Skageflå farm, but you don’t necessarily need to go all the way down to the boat landing (that part isn’t very interesting unless you plan to take the boat).
Well, that’s all for today. We hope you enjoyed this article and that it will be helpful as you plan your hike to Skageflå from Geiranger. If you have any questions, feel free to leave us a comment below.
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