Our tips to visit the east coast of Taiwan by bike

After a few wonderful days spent in the capital, Taipei, with our friend Yann and his wife Christine, you could say we made a bit of a spontaneous decision! At the very last minute, we opted to explore Taiwan’s east coast by bike, camping along the way.

I can already hear the skeptics: “Ben!!! How could you drag Fabienne into a bike road trip like that?!” Well, for once, Fabienne completely caught me off guard; it was actually her idea! And honestly, she didn’t have to twist my arm too hard to convince me ;). For those who don’t know Fabienne well, she’s never exactly had a love affair with cycling. She’d probably ridden a bike four times in her entire life — which is why I was so surprised! It seems like the start of this round-the-world trip had given her a serious confidence boost.

Maybe our encounter with that cycling couple in China — who had been riding all the way from France — had inspired her? Who knows… Either way, we used our last afternoon in Taipei to buy a camping tent, since we already had a camp stove and some pots with us. (Yeah, we travel light 😉.) Enough chit-chat — here’s a handy little guide to doing a bike road trip along Taiwan’s east coast.

7 days cycling Taiwan’s east coast in a video

Before we get into all the details, here are some highlights from this bike trip that will stay with us forever!

Safe to say this probably won’t be our first and last time traveling on two wheels, powered by our own legs. We later repeated the experience cycling a tandem for a day in Chiang Rai and exploring Angkor by bike.

Practical info for the East Coast Taiwan bike trip

This road trip covers a lovely 353 km (with 7,105 m of elevation gain!) — Fabienne Cancellara’s very first multi-day cycling adventure 😄. This stretch is part of the Taiwan circumnavigation route, known as the “huandao” or Taiwan Cycle Route No. 1 — a 960 km loop that every Taiwanese person apparently has on their bucket list! If that full 9–11-day island loop interests you, check out the official website (in English) and this PDF guide. The full loop is also doable on foot (give yourself 3 months!), by car, scooter, hitchhiking, train — basically however you like!

Itinerary

We planned to ride the most scenic and wild section of the huandao, hugging the coast along Highway 11 — a stunning 180 km coastal road connecting Hualien and Taitung on Taiwan’s east side. Between these two small cities, it’s pure joy from start to finish! And honestly, we had no idea the east coast scenery would blow us away so completely! The whole way, you’ve got the Pacific Ocean stretching endlessly on one side and lush green mountains and forests on the other. It’s pretty hard to keep your eyes on the road with a view like that ;). Embarrassing as it sounds, I caught myself grinning like an idiot on my bike more times than I can count. I kept thinking: “How lucky am I to be here, cruising along freely with Fabienne.”

On the way back to Hualien, we had planned to cut through the East Rift Valley (Huadong Valley) on Routes 197 and 193 — supposedly gorgeous roads — to wrap up the trip in 7–8 days. Unfortunately, things didn’t quite go according to plan…

Note: the huandao follows Highway 9 through eastern Taiwan, bypassing Routes 193 and 197 and Highway 11. That’s a valid option, but in our opinion, you’d miss some of the most scenic stretches.

Map

Here’s the map of our planned route with each stage marked.

Direction

We rode north to south, which is the preferred direction for most cyclists on this stretch. The full island loop, by contrast, goes counterclockwise — south to north, from Taitung to Hualien. Really though, it comes down to personal preference and the weather. Heading north to south, you’ll be on the “wrong” side of the road (we drive on the right side in Taiwan) if you want to ride alongside the ocean — and the sun will be in your face. On the upside, the wind is generally in your favor, especially in winter. The other way around, you’ll ride right next to the water with the sun at your back — but into the headwind. Your call!

If you’re planning a loop via Highway 11 and the Rift Valley, keep in mind that it’s slightly more downhill going south to north through the valley. Also, the Rift Valley is a bit more sheltered from strong winds, and you’ll find more places to eat and sleep compared to Highway 11.

By bike, by scooter, or by car?

By bike

It’s worth saying that Taiwan is genuinely bike-friendly — Fabienne isn’t reckless, after all ;). The government has made a real effort to turn Taiwan into a cycling tourism destination, and it shows. On the East Coast, there are very few large towns, and most of the coastal road has a dedicated bike lane on both sides. To top it all off, the terrain is relatively flat. In short, it’s the perfect playground for Fabienne to get comfortable on her new ride — complete with panniers, no less! And a handy bonus: you can refill your water bottles at any police station!

Then there’s the simple magic of cycling — that wonderful sense of freedom you don’t quite get with public transport. You move at your own pace, go exactly where you want. People even cheered us on along the way! When you’re tired or want to soak in the scenery, you stop — and that, in itself, is pure happiness.

We loved the experience so much that we’d happily do it again. Fabienne even told me she’d love to explore a European country this way. And I’m already on board ;).

By motorbike

Another great option is doing all or part of the Taiwan Cycle Route No. 1 by scooter! You’ll find plenty of rental agencies in Taipei, but we’d recommend starting from Hualien instead. Getting there is easy — just take the train. Unless you’re keen to tackle Taipei traffic head-on, or the 160 km ride to Hualien doesn’t scare you ;)?

By car

Exploring this part of Taiwan by car is absolutely doable. The easiest approach is to take the train down to Hualien and rent a car from there. Several agencies operate in Hualien and they’re pretty comparable in quality — best to compare prices on the spot. The roads are in excellent condition throughout, with the only slightly tricky stretches being inside Taroko Gorge.

Accommodation: camping or hotel?

We planned to wild camp most nights and pay for a campsite every third night or so, mainly to get a shower ;). And that’s pretty much what we did. Late each afternoon, we’d scout out a good spot to pitch our tent and cook a simple meal. If we needed a shower, we’d check whether there was a paid campsite or a small guesthouse nearby. Total freedom! One tip when you roll into a town: ask at the police station where you can camp. It sounds a bit odd, but they’re genuinely happy to help — and you might end up spending the night in a school gymnasium or at the police station itself, as happened to us.

Another factor that tipped the scales toward bike camping is the price of hotels in Taiwan. Finding a dorm bed for under €15 per person — or a double room for under €20 — is genuinely tough. That’s a significant chunk of your daily budget, especially compared to our accommodation costs in China or just the general cost of food and transport in Taiwan. After just 3 nights of wild camping, we’d already paid off our tent ;).

One option we didn’t know about at the time: Warmshowers — essentially a Couchsurfing platform specifically for cyclists!

We’ll cover accommodation options in more detail for each day of the itinerary.

Food

Food in Taiwan is genuinely cheap. We chose to go fully self-sufficient — cooking our own meals with our camping gear. That said, it’s completely possible to eat along the route at the many 7-Elevens and FamilyMarts dotted through towns and villages, or at night markets. Whatever suits you best — one thing’s for sure, you won’t go hungry on these roads!

As for tap water, it’s technically drinkable in larger cities, but not really recommended. You can refill at filtered water fountains at police stations in each town, at 7-Elevens, hotels, and tourist offices. Since then, we’ve switched to filtered water bottles — so handy for drinking anywhere!

Gear

The only thing we were really missing for this adventure was a tent. We picked one up at a general sports shop in Taipei, but nowadays — with 6 Decathlon stores in the Taiwanese capital — that’s where we’d head without hesitation. You can fully kit yourself out there with solid quality gear without breaking the bank.

On the smaller items front, don’t forget sunscreen and your usual toiletries if you’re staying in hotels — most places don’t provide towels, soap, or shower gel.

Road safety

As mentioned, Taiwan’s roads and bike lanes are in great shape. The main risks come from other road users. You’ll be sharing the bike lane with all kinds of two-wheelers — scooters and motorbikes included. That said, cycling on the island is so common that drivers are used to it and generally give cyclists plenty of space. Just stay alert around trucks and cars, especially on the busier stretches.

Tip: at certain intersections, you’ll spot a blue disc with a motorbike icon and two arrows. This means that to turn left, you first need to turn right into a marked box on the road and wait for the light to turn green. If you don’t see that sign, a normal left turn is fine. This video explains it clearly.

Weather

We rode in October and — as you’ll read — we dealt with a few showers, though we also had plenty of beautiful sunny days. The best time to cycle in Taiwan is October–November or March–April, avoiding the rainy season. Autumn and spring are your best bets.

Day 0: Base camp in Hualien

At 160 km south of Taipei, the city of Hualien doesn’t have a whole lot going on by itself — but its location is absolutely perfect. It sits right at the entrance to Taroko Gorge and the stunning Highway 11 that hugs the east coast all the way to Taitung. It’s the ideal spot to drop your bags, kick off a multi-day bike trip, or head off to explore the gorges — which is exactly what we did on our (somewhat premature) return from this cycling adventure.

Getting to Hualien

We made the Taipei–Hualien journey by train, and it worked really well! As we mentioned in our Taipei travel guide, public transport in Taiwan is highly developed and efficient. There’s no high-speed rail (HSR) on this side of the island, so you’ll take a regular train (TRA). The journey from Taipei Main Station takes around 2 hours 15 minutes and costs about €18–20. You can check schedules and book online. There are at least two departures per hour throughout the day.

Buses connect the two cities too, but they’re slower and barely cheaper — so the train is the way to go.

Accommodation in Hualien

Accommodation in Hualien is slightly more affordable than in Taipei — though still pricier than what we’d been used to! We’d recommend staying near the train station, which is the hub for tours and buses to Taroko Gorge, and where you’ll find bike and scooter rentals.

Hualien has a solid selection of hostels! For budget travelers like us, Sunrise Backpackers Hostel is a great shout — clean, brilliantly located, and very affordable. For a bit more comfort and privacy with a good location, we’d recommend Ellie’s House.

Renting a bike

To rent a bike, the go-to option is Giant. They have a store in every town along the coast, conveniently located near train stations. You can rent a high-quality bike in one place and return it to another Giant store further along the route — very handy! That said, we strongly recommend booking in advance through their website. We didn’t do that, and as a result, there were no bikes available… Also worth noting: all Giant stores are closed on Thursdays!

No need to panic though — there are other places in Hualien renting quality bikes with large panniers for camping gear. We actually ended up renting ours from a goldfish seller. True story! The catch is you’ll need to return the bikes to the same spot, but that wasn’t an issue for us ;). You’ll find several other rental shops on the same street as Giant. Budget around €110 (4,100 TWD) for a 10-day rental of an island-circuit-ready bike.

Tip: check your bike over carefully before setting off, and make sure you have a puncture repair kit, a lock, bungee cords, and a helmet. These are often included in the rental price or available as add-ons.

Day 1: Hualien → Jiqi Beach

• 42 km
• 1,100 m elevation gain (same descent)

The only real challenges today are a few short climbs around km 22–23 and between km 27–31. The last one is a gradual ascent to about 230 m — but honestly, nothing you can’t handle!

At Jiqi Beach, if you’re up for it, there’s a short walk on the Dashibishan Trail before sunset — a loop of under 1 km.

Day 2: Jiqi Beach → around Nan Chong’an Beach

• 64 km
• 1,500 m elevation gain, same descent
• No major difficulties

One highlight worth stopping for is Shitiping — a remarkable coastal geological site sculpted entirely by erosion. And if you’re into geographical milestones, you’ll cross the Tropic of Cancer about 6 km south of Shitiping. You can’t miss it — it’s marked by a large white column right on the roadside!

On a more dramatic note, we experienced our first earthquake that day — a 6.7-magnitude tremor, with us sitting just 30 km from the epicenter. Here’s a little flashback of the conversation we had under the tent that night:

• Fabienne: “Ben! Wake up… I feel like we’re moving! It’s really weird…”
• Ben: “Go back to sleep, for crying out loud… You’re probably just dizzy.”

You guessed it — I completely slept through my first earthquake. And it was a big one. It wasn’t until the next morning, when we turned our phones back on, that we realized what had happened. Several messages were waiting to ask if we were okay. Well, growing up in Switzerland, it takes more than a small tremor to rattle you!

Those first two days were pure magic. We had gorgeous sunny weather throughout the day, with a few dramatic thunderstorms in the evening — but our tent proved completely waterproof. Phew! We found two incredible camping spots with views to die for 😄. Since camping means early nights, we were treated to stunning Pacific sunrises over a morning coffee and biscuits. And honestly, moments like those? They’re priceless.

Day 3: Nan Chong’an Beach → Dulan

• 42 km
• 800 m elevation gain, same descent
• Nothing notable difficulty-wise

Don’t miss a stop at Sanxiantai for its famous dragon-back bridge! Walk across and follow the short trail over the islet for some lovely viewpoints.

A night at the police station — here’s the story

On day 3, we stopped at Dulan, a laid-back surf village in the Donghe township, a few kilometers north of Taitung. This was the night we spent in police custody — though we hadn’t done anything wrong, I promise! In Dulan, the police actually let traveling cyclists camp for free in covered shelters right inside the station grounds. How cool is that?! And we were especially glad to have a roof over our heads: it absolutely bucketed down that evening and kept going all through the next day. That unexpected rest day gave us a chance to really soak up Dulan’s laid-back vibe. If you pass through, spend an extra day — it’s totally worth it, and there’s loads going on at weekends.

Day 4: Dulan → Taitung

• 21 km
• 150 m elevation gain, same descent

Unfortunately, the weather didn’t improve much for us. We took advantage of a brief break in the rain to ride to Taitung, and with a heavy heart, we boarded the train back toward Hualien. We’re not in charge of the weather, so we made the best of it!

Note: we took the train with our bikes, but not all trains accept bikes! You can only board certain regional trains (TRA). To check which trains allow bikes, head to the Taiwan Railways website and look for the “Bicycle Train Schedule/Code Search” section. Enter your origin and destination and it’ll show you which trains accept bikes. Your bike will need its own ticket, priced at half the regular fare.

Another option for taking any train — including express services — without buying an extra ticket is to rent a bike transport bag. You’ll need to remove the wheels and pack everything up.

Note: We’ve only heard great things about 197 and 193 roads back up to Hualien. If the weather is on your side, you’ll almost certainly love riding those roads — especially with hot springs dotted along the way, sweeping views over terraced rice paddies, and tea plantations through the East Rift Valley. The continuation below draws on Ben and Lucy’s experience for the alternative route. Feel free to drop them a message with any questions!

Day 5: Dawu → Dulan

• 82 km
• 1,500 m elevation gain, same descent

Smooth riding overall. Just before reaching Taitung on Highway 11, a small police post offers food and a cool place to rest — a very welcome stop!

Day 6: Dulan → Sanxiantai

• 40 km
• 670 m elevation gain, same descent

From the town of Chenggong, a bike path takes you out to the Sanxiantai peninsula — check Maps carefully to find it. You can sleep under the covered shelters in the Sanxiantai nature reserve. Take advantage of the pebble beach, the tourist center’s showers, water refills, and charging points. You can even grab a meal in the small visitor hall during opening hours (9 a.m-5 p.m.). A genuinely lovely spot to sleep and connect with nature.

Day 7: Sanxiantai → Jiqi Beach

• 74 km
• 1,650 m elevation gain, same descent

This stretch doesn’t have many shops for food, but there are plenty of points of interest — and therefore water: Baxian Cave, the Tropic of Cancer… Plan your meals ahead! There’s a 7-Eleven in Fengbin and occasional fruit stalls at scenic stops along the way.

Just before Jiqi Beach, there’s a small peninsula with a hilltop where shelters are perched: if you’re feeling adventurous, the view from the top is incredible. Otherwise, just past the hill, there’s a shelter next to the boat ramp at Jiqi’s tiny fishing port, and another shelter/lookout at the far end of the beach (visible from the road).

Day 8: Jiqi Beach → Hualien

• 41 km
• 1,100 m elevation gain, same descent

After Jiqi Beach, it’s a climb up to the Baci (Baqi) viewpoint — also a great camping spot with a fantastic view back over Jiqi Beach and toilets on site. Then it’s the final roll back into Hualien, with the option to extend the ride to the Chilaibi lighthouse and the gorgeous Qixingtan beach!

Clearly, we’re not going to win any endurance awards here. A seasoned cyclist could probably knock out the entire route in a couple of days. But if you’d told Fabienne before the trip that she’d be spending a week cycling and wild camping — and loving every second of it — she would have laughed in your face! So hats off to her! She pushed way beyond her comfort zone over those few days, and thanks to her, we discovered a whole new way of traveling that gave us a real sense of freedom. Truly, bravo.

So yes — we are completely and utterly sold on bike travel. The freedom, the encouragement from strangers along the way, the physical effort that somehow makes the scenery even more beautiful — it all adds up to something special. And wild camping? It’s officially our new best friend.

Of course, one week gave us just a taste of what bike touring can really be. The highs — and yes, the lows too. But we’re hungry for more, both during this trip and when we get home. Exploring a European country by bike feels like the natural next chapter. After all, two wheels are one of the best ways to travel affordably in places where everything else costs a fortune ;).

Not remotely put off by our early exit, we hopped back on our trusty bikes to go and explore the famous Taroko Gorge!

And what about you — have you ever done a multi-day or multi-week bike trip?

P.S. — To help you plan your next adventure on the island, we’ve put together a practical travel guide for Taiwan. Happy reading!

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