Discover Val d'Hérens in Valais: our best addresses

Welcome to our page dedicated to the magnificent Val d'Hérens. We've got into the habit of creating country-specific pages, and it's quite rare that we decide to dwell so much on one region. Val d'Hérens is an exception, however, because since spring 2023 it's been our home, so it's only natural that we'll be talking to you about it more often. ;)

On this page, you'll find a wealth of practical information, ideas for things to see and do in the Evolène, Les Haudères, Arolla or Hérémence and Grande Dixence regions, but above all a clearer view of our various detailed articles on the region. Whether you've decided to vacation here, are looking for a day trip or a hiking tour, you should be able to find everything you need in our various articles.

Map of all our blog posts

For easier access to our content, we've created an interactive map of all our articles from the region below. Simply click on a point to see a summary of the article and then open it to learn more.

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Our love story with Val d'Hérens

It's pretty hard for us to express how infinitely happy we are to have settled in such a beautiful region. After years of roaming the 4 corners of the globe, we were ready to settle down a bit more. Of course, we'll continue to travel, but now we officially have a place to call "home", and you know what? Our "home" is really a little corner of paradise, our little paradise.

Our very first visit to the region was in 2015, when we came to hike the Tour du Val d'Hérens. At the time, we described the region as "a Switzerland out of time", and I must admit that we could never have imagined that this first crush would evolve into a decision to move here "for good" ;)

Over the years, the Val d'Hérens has had a kind of magnet effect on us... We'd come here, then as soon as we left we'd say to ourselves: "ohh so good, we'll have to come back in autumn to see the larch trees! Oh, and in winter, under the snow, it must be incredible! And can you imagine all the huts we can still go spend a night at over there!" ;)

In short, one thing led to another, and we started coming back again and again... until we never left.

When should you visit Val d'Hérens? A 4-season destination par excellence!

Switzerland's mountains are ultra-popular in winter, and the summer months are also beginning to find their audience, thanks to the almost infinite possibilities for hiking. But believe us, spring and autumn have more than one trick up their sleeves too ;) To tell you the truth, autumn is probably our favorite season, especially in the Val d'Hérens. With its many larch trees, the region is transformed into a veritable tableau of orange hues.

Get ready for a whole host of articles about our new home, and we promise to give you a taste of what's to come ;)

Coming to Val d'Hérens

One of the reasons we decided to come to the Val d'Hérens was the incredible ease of access to this little corner of paradise, which can sometimes feel like you've arrived at the end of the world.

To get to the Val d'Hérens, you obviously have the option of driving: it takes around 30 minutes to get to Evolène from Sion. The valley road is wide and perfectly maintained. There's no need to worry about any vehicle (even camper vans can get in without a hitch).

If you're taking public transport, it's not much more complicated. From Sion station, there are several post buses to the valley's villages. It takes about 40 minutes by bus to reach Evolène. There are about ten buses a day, so it's super easy to plan your trip! And once you're in the valley, the buses will take you to almost all the trailheads.

Where to stay in Val d'Hérens?

Well, at our place of course! :) No, I assure you, I'm not going to be self-promoting... All the more so as our coliving is only for people who want to come and work remotely from the region (our minimum stay is 2 weeks). If that's your case, you can take a look at our website here.

If you're coming on vacation, here are a few good addresses to suit all budgets:

Campsites: There are 4 campsites in the valley and to be honest they're all great!

Le camping d'Arolla: Europe's highest campsite. It's the ideal base camp from which to explore the surrounding peaks, immersed in a green setting.

Le camping du Molignon, les Haudères:the campsite next door to us. Situated by the river, it has lovely spacious pitches and the sound of the water lulls you to sleep at night. This campsite is open all year round.

Le camping d'Evolène: open in the summer months, it's right in the center of the village of Evolène. Personally, I'd say it's the least "charming", but the location is great for being more centered in the valley and able to explore the surrounding area by bus.

Le camping de Pralong / Val des Dix: the least "known". Located at the far end of the Val des Dix, at the foot of the impressive Grande Dixence dam. It's an ideal starting point for hikes!

Note: It is important to know that wild van camping is strictly forbidden in Val d'Hérens.

Hotels:

There are many hotels and apartments for rent in the valley. Rates range (roughly) from CHF 25 per bed in a dormitory (Blue Lake Pension) to around CHF 250 - 300 per night for a more exclusive experience at a place like Anakolodge.

Here's a small personal selection of places to stay in Val d'Hérens:

Budget friendly options:

• La pension du lac bleu: top location and very reasonable prices. The dormitory is 25 CHF a night. It's basic, but it's got what you need. You can expect to pay CHF 60 for a single room or CHF 95 for a double.
• Le gîte des Alpes, Les Haudères. Located above the pizzeria, the gîte offers simple but comfortable rooms. Rates range from CHF 45 to 55 per person (depending on the season), and include overnight accommodation with breakfast and shared bathroom.
• Hôtel Eden, Evolène: a friendly address in the center of Evolène village. Prices start at CHF 85 for a room with shared bathroom and CHF 105 for a private bathroom (low-season rates).
• Pension d'Evolène : A lovely address in the center of Evolène, where the food is also very good! Rates start at CHF 42 per night in low season for a single room with shared bathroom (without breakfast), and go up to CHF 150 for a double room with private bathroom in high season.

Average budget:

• Les dents de Veisivi, les Haudères: A safe bet in Les Haudères. We've never stayed there, but go there regularly to eat. The owners are lovely, and you can tell they take great care to make sure our visitors feel at home.
• Les Mélèzes, Les Haudères: A lovely family address in Les Haudères. The building is famous in summer for being one of the most lavishly decorated in terms of flowers... it's just splendid! There's also a small spa on the outdoor terrace, with a view of the Dent Blanche.
• L'hôtel de la Sage: The best view? Hmm... most likely yes! In any case, their breakfast/meal room won't disappoint! It's a beautiful historic hotel that has retained its old-world charm (but with a modern touch for comfort) ;)
• Le Kurhaus, Arolla: A superb historic hotel facing the glaciers! In my humble opinion, this is one of the finest addresses for lovers of historic buildings and for those who want to be right at the start of amazing hiking trails!

For a more exclusive experience, it's also possible to spend the night in one of Anakolodge's different mayens. This is a project by an architect who was keen to breathe new life into these old buildings (raccards, attics and barns). An exclusive touch in a resolutely authentic setting. Rates: approx. CHF 220-300 per night, minimum stay 2 nights.

Living here, we obviously didn't try out all the addresses ourselves ;) We've only stayed at the Mélèzes des Haudères, the Hôtel de la Sage and the Pigne d'Arolla during our various hikes in the valley in the past.

Note: when you stay in the valley (whether at a hotel or campsite), you'll pay a tourist tax. This tax entitles you to use all public transport in the valley free of charge. We think this is really great, as it allows you to plan hikes that aren't necessarily loops.

Our best places to eat/drink/shop in Val d'Hérens

To conclude this page, we'd like to offer you a small selection of our favorite addresses in the region. We don't pretend to be gastronomic critics, and these favourites are purely subjective opinions, so you'll find not only fine dining restaurants, but also good places to eat a good mountain dish on the go!

In all likelihood, many addresses are still missing... Yes, we haven't been here very long! But we promise to update this list as we go along!

PS: it goes without saying that we're only talking about addresses we know. If you have any recommendations of addresses to add, don't hesitate to send us an e-mail! We're always up for a bite to eat or a drink at a new address ;)

Good places to eat in Val d'Hérens

For gourmets, Val d'Hérens is also a place where you can find excellent restaurants! :) Since we moved to Les Haudères, we've been trying to find new addresses for each of our outings, so as to have plenty of varied suggestions for our guests (and for you, at the same time) ;).

In short, this list is bound to evolve, but here are our personal recommendations.

Les Collines - La Sage

Ah là là... Les Collines is probably the best restaurant in the region... 14 points at Gault & Millau, no less! It's not exactly the cheapest either, but believe us, between the excellent dishes, the crazy desserts and the breathtaking view, it's worth going if you want to treat yourself. Note that we also regularly go there in the morning or afternoon for a slice of pie and a cup of tea, and there we enjoy the view for a much more moderate budget ;) Les collines website

Col de Torrent - Villaz

We continue with another very good address in the valley, the Col de Torrent restaurant. Run by Aurélie and Laeticia, this is our favorite address for home cooking that's a little out of the ordinary. Their menu evolves with the seasons, each time offering dishes inspired by local traditions but with a modern twist, as well as more Asian and creative recipes. In short, we love it! Next door to the restaurant, you can also take a look at the little brocante.. Their website to see the current menu

Dents de Veisivi - Les Haudères

Our neighbors (or almost). Run by Daniela and Eddy, Les dents de Veisivi is a sure bet! Whether it's their delicious Hérens burger, the caquelon veisviard or the röstis, all dishes are succulent and well presented. In summer, their terrace features a pétanque court, ideal for enjoying an aperitif while "playing sport" ;)

Pizzeria des Alpes - Les Haudères

Our other neighbors. :) The pizzas are great and the team is very friendly. The concept of the pizzeria is to offer basic pizzas and then you can freely choose how many extra ingredients to put on them. Our colivers were particularly keen on the option of adding raclette cheese from Les Haudères. In summer, their terrace is a haven of peace!

Le Kurhaus - Arolla

I don't think I'm going too far if I say that this is probably the prettiest terrace in the Val d'Hérens (ok, the competition is fierce, but the Kurhaus has a je ne sais quoi that means it's often the one I mention first). The cuisine is carefully prepared and, above all, very varied. There are plenty of vegetarian options, as well as gluten-free and lactose-free alternatives. Kurhaus website

Pension du lac bleu - Arolla

Located at the parking lot that leads to the famous blue lake, the pension is a very nice place to eat. We've only been there for lunch, and every time we've eaten very well! The dishes are simple and tasty, and the terrace is very pleasant.

La buvette de Mandelon

THE spot for a moitié-moitié fondue, chalet maccaroni or cheese crust straight from the mountain pastures. We love this place, and it's always a great place to eat. Ideal starting point for a lovely walk to the Vendes mayens. Description of the walk here.

PS: don't leave the mountain pasture without buying their cheese, I promise you won't regret it!

 

Restaurant la Grange - La Paix - Evolène

A classic in Evolène, the Grange-La Paix restaurant is what we call a safe bet. You'll find typical regional dishes such as meats on the slate and cheese-based dishes. The portions are generous and the welcome super warm. We've been there several times, and never been disappointed! Their website

Les Raccards - Evolène

A change of scene: this is a tea-room bakery at the entrance to the village. It's ideal for a cheap meal on the go. At lunchtime, they also offer formulas with homemade soups and a drink. It's nothing "gastronomic", but the setting is nice and the food is very good.

Le Saint-Martin RestoBar - Saint Martin

The latest restaurant we recently tried out, RestoBar de Saint-Martin, is a really great address. The cuisine is refined and the menu very varied! Price-wise, I'd say it's slightly above average for the valley, but the quality is au rendez-vous! Their website

Where to go out for a drink?

Le petit café des Haudères

Literally on our doorstep, Le Petit Café is a great little bar where you can catch the last rays on the terrace at the end of the day. They also offer a small menu with cheese and meat boards, and on certain evenings they serve raclette by the portion. A small village bar as we like them.

La Dent-Blanche Evolène

Located on the ground floor of the former Hotel Dent Blanche, this bar has a superb terrace in summer, and a cool carnotzet bar on grey days or in winter! Pool table, live music concerts, Mario Kart tournament, etc. :) For a snack, they also serve pizza and Flamkueche

Le Mazot - Chez Raymonde

Ahhh le Mazot... Known primarily for its wood-fired raclettes and its emblematic owner, this is also a great place to have a drink. After 10 p.m., when the last raclettes are served, the bar's atmosphere usually becomes quite festive on weekends!

Where to buy groceries

So here I'm deliberately omitting supermarkets such as the Coop in Evolène or Denner in Les Haudères. Not that these addresses aren't good (we go there very regularly), but we figure you'll easily find the supermarkets on your own and we'll tell you about the smaller addresses instead ;)

- L'épicerie de la Sage : Run by Marlène, this charming grocery gives pride of place to local, seasonal products and small-scale crafts. It's a small village grocery store like almost none you'll find anymore... We urge you to drop in! Oh, and don't hesitate to follow her instagram or her facebook page! Marlène shares what she calls her "little grocery tales" on a daily basis, and it's a pure delight to read the exchanges she has with her loyal clientele. (in French however)

- La Boucherie chez Léo : Benoit and I are 90% vegetarians... or let's say that for several years now we've made the choice not to eat meat of unclear origin. Benoit's uncle breeds Hérens cows, and that was our exception. We're probably not the butcher's best customers, but we send our colivers there with our eyes closed. The meat is local, of very good quality and the welcome is ultra friendly!

- L'échoppe à Raphy : This address is not our discovery, but that of one of our colivers. Marta was looking for a place to buy "local" wine and was told there was Raphy's shop in Evolène. One Friday, she set off on foot along the river and came back ENCHANTED (and slightly tipsy) from her first trip. After that, it became a tradition that every Friday she'd set off on her "wine hike" to buy a bottle of rosé, apricot jam or other local produce. Raphy's shop is only open 2-3 days a week, but you can always find little gems thanks to his sound advice and warm welcome!

- Le marché des Haudères  and Evolène (summer) : During the summer months, a small craft market is held every Thursday in Les Haudères and every Friday in Evolène.
- Ferme des Devins : Ferme des Devins is located in the commune of Hérémence and offers a self-service store in Les Mayens-de-Sion. The perfect place to buy local fruit and vegetables!

- La laiterie des Haudères : A place where you're likely to run into us! :) Quite simply, the best cheese in the world is made here (yes, a little chauvinism never hurts). The shop is open for direct sales 7/7, from 9am to 11:30am and from 4pm to 6:30pm. Outside these hours, a vending machine is available to satisfy cheese cravings at any time of the day or night ;)
- Alpage de Mandelon :It's not often that we make infidelities to the Haudères cheese maker, but we'll admit it... when we pass by the Mandelon mountain pasture, it's hard to resist their excellent cheeses! Direct sale at the mountain pasture.

 

We hope this page will help you plan your future stay in the region! And if you're passing through Les Haudères and want to come and say hello, don't hesitate to drop us a line. :) We leave you with all our articles on the region below (in chronological order).