In our last article, we explained how to best prepare for this road trip from Chiang Mai. Today, we’re sharing a more visual piece where we take you through our itinerary and favorite spots on the Mae Hong Son Loop. Before settling here, we knew there were tons of things to do around Chiang Mai and that we’d probably feast our eyes on magnificent landscapes. But we never expected to be so visually blown away as we were on this loop!
Ready? Then strap on your helmets and join us for a little 800-kilometer ride through the mountain roads of northern Thailand!
We traveled the Mae Hong Son Loop in November 2016, but this article has been completely reviewed and updated in May 2025. If you notice any price changes or have additional information that might be relevant, don’t hesitate to leave us a comment!
Mae Hong Son Loop video
Before presenting the detailed itinerary, here’s a preview of what awaits you on the Mae Hong Son Loop!
Day 1: From Chiang Mai to Pai
This first day starts early to avoid Chiang Mai’s rather dense traffic as much as possible. But let’s be honest, the first 40 kilometers aren’t the most exciting.
We follow the huge Route 107, which resembles more of a highway than a charming little mountain road. But after about an hour of driving (and some cold sweats with Thai driving habits), we turn onto Route 1095. And there, my friends, that’s where the real fun begins! To give you an idea, there are no fewer than 1,864 curves over the 100 km to Pai!
The road becomes narrower (meaning there are no longer 2-3 lanes and crazy traffic), long straight stretches give way to a winding road, and buildings are replaced by rice fields and strawberry plantations as far as the eye can see (and some buffalo too)!
During this first day, we didn’t make many stops along the way, except to treat ourselves to a little coffee by a small lake. Well, yeah, we wanted to arrive in Pai early to have time to discover the surroundings a bit!
Anyway, it was just before noon that we arrived in Pai. We looked for accommodation, went to grab a bite in the town center, and almost immediately got back on our ride to explore the area a bit.
Pai is one of those places where you could easily get hooked for several days. There’s something in the air that makes it feel good to live there! But if you decide to put down the fruit shake and leave your bungalow hammock, there are also plenty of cool things to discover. Here’s a quick overview of Pai’s must-sees!
The World War II Memorial Bridge
You’ll pass this bridge anyway if you come via the 762-curve road that connects Chiang Mai to Pai. (By the way, you’ll encounter a total of 1,864 bends on this loop!) Don’t be misled by the name, though – this bridge doesn’t date from World War II. It’s a monument erected in memory of an old bridge. Personally, I didn’t find it transcendent, but let’s say it’s an opportunity for a brief stop along the way!
Pam Bok Waterfall
Located 4 km from Route 1095, Pam Bok is a nice little waterfall where you can swim. We found there were a few too many people. But if your butt doesn’t hurt too much yet, it’s a nice little detour. However, entry is 400 baht per person after the rainy season, 100 baht at the end of the dry season. Keep in mind it was still free just a few years ago…
Wat Phra That Mae Yen Temple
We didn’t go there, but it might be worth it for an unbeatable view of Pai and the surroundings and to see the large Buddha statue. Prepare to climb 300 steps! Entry to Wat Phra That Mae Yen is free.
Pai Canyon
Pai Canyon was the spot we had a date with at the end of the day! Upon arrival, the first surprise was finding that access is free, rare enough in Asia to note!
Don’t expect the Grand Canyon, but the place still has serious charm! Here, you can freely walk on the different slopes. Sometimes, the escapade proves a bit perilous: we admit we didn’t dare cross everywhere.
The place is pretty, but it’s especially at sunset that it becomes sublime. When the low light illuminates the red rock and the sun slowly disappears behind the mountains, a very special atmosphere emerges! By the way, we noticed that several travelers had come equipped with their tents, and once the sun set, they started setting up camp. We admit: we were a bit jealous for not thinking of camping!
Other things to do in Pai
Pai is also THE spot on the loop to try outdoor activities like zip-lining or tubing. For those interested! Also, the Chinese Santichon Village hadn’t emerged yet during our visit… Honestly, it looks like it was built solely for tourists rather than anything else. Not sure we’d recommend it!
We spent the night at Nest House, a cozy little nest as its name suggests! We loved the establishment, the rooms, the environment, the breakfast… In short, perfect! If you prefer to stay for less, it’s possible – Pai is full of hostels! And if you have your tent, take advantage and camp! You’ll find plenty of campsites.
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Day 2: From Pai to Soppong
For this second day of the Mae Hong Son loop, we gave ourselves a bit of respite for our butts. Well, that’s what we thought! Between Pai and Soppong (Sop Pong), there are only 40 km. So after a good hour of driving, we had already arrived at our destination. We took the first hotel we came across, dropped our stuff, and left for what was supposed to be “a little motorbike ride.”
Visiting Tham Lot Caves
Our first stop was the Tham Lot caves (Nam Lod)! Located about ten kilometers from Route 1095, it’s a stone’s throw that’s well worth the detour if you want our opinion.
Before entering, we paid the entry fee of 600 baht. It’s a fixed price for a group up to 3 people. It includes park entry, a guide who accompanies you for a good hour through the 3 caves, as well as a tour on a small bamboo raft inside the last cave. At first glance, we found it quite expensive, but we don’t regret it for a single second in the end!
The visit begins with a small path leading to the cave entrance. There, the guide lights his kerosene lamp and we explore the interior in his company. He then shows us, by the light of his lamp, all sorts of animals from his imagination. The elephant rock, the shark rock, the butterfly stone… Well… The only one we all agreed on was a breast-shaped stalactite 😅!
The visit to Nam Lod caves is interrupted by small crossings of the underground lake on kinds of large bamboo rafts. Frankly, I was really confident! But that was clearly before we heard the dull sound of an oar hitting the water. Our guide turns around and lights up as best he can a man standing on his small boat. He was lifting something that looked pretty massive in the water. At that moment, the guide exclaims: “Look! Look! Water snake! Big snake!”
Yep… Well, that was all it took for me to finish the rest of the crossing, scrutinizing my feet on this little raft 10 cm from the surface and praying there wasn’t a huge snake that would emerge. #RealScaredy-cat
Alternative end to the visit
At the end of the Tham Lot visit, we have 2 options: either we cross the caves again on the raft, or we walk around via a small path.
Knowing that the guy maneuvering the raft has to pull it upstream to bring the boat back to the start, we preferred to opt for the walk. Already, this brave man walks waist-deep in water where snakes have taken up residence – we weren’t going to ask him to tow us too. And let’s forget the option where I would have had to put a toe in the water, please!
I admit I particularly loved this visit for its natural side too! In Asia, they tend to love super kitsch lighting and crazy infrastructure for tourist sites a bit too much… Here? A guy in flip-flops with his kerosene lamp showing the way and small bamboo boats, simply pushed with long poles and brought back upstream on foot.
We had read online that there could be quite a crowd at Tham Lot, but we were almost alone there. Throughout the entire visit, we probably crossed about ten people who were also wandering around with their guide.
Sunsets in the Thai Countryside
After visiting Nam Lod caves, we didn’t really have a specific plan. On Google Maps, we saw that if we continued on a small road, we might be able to rejoin the 1095 by another route…
Hmm… How can I put it… We arrived on a dirt track. I had to get off the motorbike because it wasn’t manageable to ride there with 2 people. While Benoit went scouting on the scooter, I got charged by a calf! I ran, I swore! Benoit came back because the track condition was getting worse. In short, it was a total fail!
At sunset, we still had no real plan. So we rode along Route 1095. When we saw pretty little rice fields, we took a small road. There, we did something we’re rather proud of: 2 sunsets the same evening! It doesn’t take much to be happy, right 😉?
Actually, we watched the sun hide behind a mountain once, then got back on our ride and went a few more kilometers to go around it. And bam! A second sunset in one evening. Faster than light, I tell you!
In Sop Pong, we slept at Northern Hill guesthouse. It’s simple but clean for good value. They also have a restaurant that serves delicious dishes! There are only about ten accommodations in the village.
Day 3: From Soppong to Mae Hong Son
This third day of the loop was marked once again by a “small” detour off the road to look for a waterfall. Hmm… I say look for. In the end, we went 5-6 kilometers, including quite a bit on tracks, only to come back empty-handed.
I got off the motorbike once more: Benoit left me in the middle of the jungle to go “100 meters further, to see.” Well, he came back 20 minutes later without finding a waterfall, but with the proposal to cross a river by motorbike. Nope! In short, fail #2.
Fortunately for us, there’s Pha Suea (Pha Sua) waterfall a bit further: a magnificent waterfall located roadside. Well, it’s no longer free (100 baht per person), but we loved the area so much we’ll come back tomorrow. By the way, the ticket for this waterfall works as a package and also offers entry to Pang Oung reservoir and Tham Pla Fish-hole cave. We didn’t go there, but these 2 sites are located respectively on a road connected to the one leading to Ban Rak Thai village and on the 1095, just before Mae Hong Son. You can go there on day 4.
Su Tong Pae Bamboo Bridge
Before arriving in Mae Hong Son, we made another small stop at the famous Su Tong Pae bamboo bridge. Originally, this 500-meter-long bridge, which spans rice fields, was built to connect the village to the temple on the other side of the fields. Today, the bridge is certainly still used by monks and locals, but it has also become a (free!) tourist attraction. We found the visit nice, especially since we were completely alone on the bridge!
Sunset at Mae Hong Son
Finally, we arrived in Mae Hong Son late in the day with sore butts.
After settling into our guesthouse, we walked up toward Wat Phrathat Doi Kongmu. We could have gone up by motorbike, though: the road goes right to the temple. But after spending our days sitting, we really needed to stretch our legs a bit.
The Phra That Doi Kongmu temple is truly magnificent! It overlooks the village and has the particularity of being a little spot for an absolutely stunning sunset! But if you want our opinion, the best spot is still a few meters further. Behind the temple, you’ll see a small hill where there’s a viewpoint from which you have an absolutely incredible panorama of the surrounding mountains. We’ve marked the spot on the map. A real corner of paradise, I tell you!
At the end of the day, we strolled on the quays by Mae Hong Son’s small lake, facing Wat Chong Klang, in the company of Sofia and Thibault, two travelers we met at sunset.
Well, we can’t remember where we slept anymore! We remember the location and after research and gathering our vague memories, it must have been the Sarm Mork Guest House. For the price, it was perfect!
Day 4: Around Mae Hong Son
In Mae Hong Son, there are really plenty of things to do! So we decided to play extensions a bit and booked a second night at our accommodation before getting back on our scooter to explore the area a bit!
Ban Rak Thai Village
For this second day here, we retraced our steps from the day before and went back toward Pha Suea waterfall to continue further. We had read online that it was really worth going up to Ban Rak Tha village, a small Chinese village located less than a kilometer from the Myanmar border.
The road leading there is absolutely SUBLIME, worth taking! However, you need a good engine between your legs, because it climbs seriously!
Afterward, we didn’t find the village itself incredible. The small lake is certainly pretty, but the line of shops, buses full of Chinese tourists, and omnipresent selfie sticks somewhat spoiled our pleasure.
In short, it’s beautiful, but it’s definitely a bit too kitsch for our taste…
Pang Tong Palace
On the way back, we made a small detour through Pang Tong Palace. We were expecting a bit of a palace (oh come on, with that name, don’t tell me you wouldn’t have been fooled!), but in the end it wasn’t!
Actually, it’s a place sponsored by the royal family. At the base of the project is the desire to help local populations get out of opium cultivation and help them develop other skills. In short, the “palace” is therefore a huge house on a hill, overlooking a gigantic, super well-maintained garden and hosting lots of animals (mostly in cages).
Late in the day, we walked back up to Wat Phrathat Doi Kongmu to admire the sunset a second time before ending the evening in Mae Hong Son, where an art and culture festival was taking place.
A little tip if you go up to admire the sunset: once the sun is down, don’t go back down to Mae Hong Son right away. Wait a little moment for the light to drop a bit and stay within the temple grounds. The temple is truly sublime once night falls!
The art and culture Festival in Mae Hong Son
Anyway, on to this famous cultural festival! We didn’t quite understand, because the infrastructure seemed seriously huge (stages, crazy lighting, sound systems, dance programs, singing) while there were very few people. We arrived quite late and still had a front-row seat: that tells you about the crowd!
Apparently, it’s an event that happens from time to time and not an annual festival like Loy Krathong.
Guan Yin Shrine Temple
This Chinese temple was under renovation during our visit to Mae Hong Son. Now, the Guan Yin Shrine temple is open, ready to dazzle you with all its colors!
Day 5: From Mae Hong Son to Mae Chaem
We knew this 5th day was going to be busy. We basically had the choice between:
- Going directly to Mae Chaem strictly following the route, 165 km, which by motorbike is already quite a lot;
- Making a 60 km “detour” via Mae Surin waterfall and the wild sunflower fields of Thung Bua Tong at Doi Mae U Kho.
Mae Chaem
Let’s admit it, we hesitated! In the end, we told ourselves it would be stupid to be in the area and not make the most of it, especially since the weather was radiant. A little sore butt won’t get the better of us, no way!
We did well! The road of this “detour” was probably one of the most spectacular of the entire loop! It climbs steeply, turns enormously, but we advance in the middle of sunflower fields with breathtaking panoramas! Yes, they are indeed sunflowers, but Mexican sunflowers, quite different from those we know in Europe ;).
Mae Surin waterfall
Arriving at Namtok Mae Surin waterfall, we paid the entry fee of 200 baht per person.
Hmm… So, how to put it? The waterfall is superb, but we were a bit disappointed because the path that allowed us to go down to its base has been closed. For 200 baht, we just have access to an observation platform that’s still relatively far away. We’ll let you judge from the photo – this is as close as you can currently get!
You’ll have understood, we don’t regret coming here! However, not sure we’d really recommend spending so much to see this waterfall from so far away.
Try to come here on weekdays. On the weekend, it’s clearly an ultra-touristic spot for Thais! We must have crossed 3 Western tourists, while there were several hundred Thai families who came to spend the day admiring sunflowers and the waterfall.
We slept above the 7-Eleven, at Sangthong Building. For one night, it was largely sufficient! In Mae Chaem, the choice isn’t huge in terms of accommodation, but you should manage for 500 baht per night.
Day 6: From Mae Chaem to Chiang Mai
For our last day on the loop, let’s admit we were a bit tired of having our butts glued to a motorbike. We briefly hesitated to go to Doi Inthanon National Park where Thailand’s highest peak is located. Finally, we’ll go later since we spent 5 months in Chiang Mai!
Instead, we simply opted for an alternative route for the return. The classic route passes through Doi Inthanon and follows Route 1009 to fairly quickly join the 108, a big highway. So we preferred to opt for a route that’s a tad more panoramic and we clearly did well!
A few kilometers after the junction to go up to the summit, we therefore took Route 1284, then 1013. This alternative is a small detour, but it’s way more scenic! We cross small villages while winding through sinuous mountain roads – a real treat!
Detailed map of our Mae Hong Son Loop
To summarize the Mae Hong Son Loop, we made this great interactive map where you’ll find absolutely all the addresses, viewpoints, and attractions mentioned as well as the accommodations where we slept. By clicking on a pin, you’ll see a photo as well as information about prices.
There, this time, the loop is looped! 😉
To properly organize your road trip, check out the article with all the practical info and our budget for these 6 days! If you have questions or if you’ve done the loop and have must-see spots in the region, don’t hesitate to leave a little comment!
Speaking of the Mae Hong Son Loop means motorbike rental! But are you properly insured? First, check that the A mention is checked on your international permit. Indeed, a simple car license isn’t enough to drive a two-wheeler. If you get checked, you risk a fine. Sure, the amount isn’t high, but that’s no reason. Then check that your travel insurance covers you in case of motorbike rental. We met plenty of injured backpackers in hostels in Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai: accidents are more frequent than you think. Finally, if you don’t have a motorcycle license, your insurer may refuse to cover you in case of trouble and the bill can be steep…
This is such a great guide! I’m planning a Mae Hong Son Loop Tour (4-5 days) with my family, and your insights have been really helpful for understanding the route and must-visit spots. The scenery along the way looks absolutely breathtaking! Your detailed tips and beautiful photos have made me even more excited for this trip. Thanks for sharing your experience!