A getaway to Peneda-Gerês National Park in northern Portugal

After spending a few days in the Douro Valley, our road trip through Portugal was coming to an end, and we began our journey back to Switzerland. Of course, we couldn’t possibly be in Portugal without at least planning a quick stop in our favorite region: Galicia. We have friends there who are very dear to us, and making this “little detour” was a no-brainer. When we started planning our route to Anceu, we realized we’d be passing not far from the Peneda-Gerês National Park!

We had already spotted this national park during our many trips to Galicia, but strangely enough, we had never taken the time to cross the border to explore it. In short, we decided to stop for two days in this little corner of paradise.

Of course, two days is far too short to see the whole park, but we’re really happy with this first glimpse, and it’s only made us want to come back here in the future.

Okay, enough chit-chat. We’re taking you on a two-day trip filled with beautiful walks, waterfalls, and hikes in Peneda-Gerês National Park.

Peneda Gerês National Park: Overview

Located in the far north of Portugal, on the border with Spain, Peneda-Gerês National Park is a hidden gem that remains relatively unknown to the general public. Established in 1971, it is the country’s only national park, which speaks volumes about its ecological and cultural value. Unlike other European countries, which have numerous national parks, Portugal has long favored other forms of land protection, such as natural parks or reserves. Peneda-Gerês is therefore an exception—a preserved area where nature still thrives freely.

Here, the landscapes are wild and varied. The vegetation is particularly lush, featuring a mix of oak and pine forests, heathlands, ferns, and endemic flora that will delight botany enthusiasts.

But Peneda-Gerês isn’t just about spectacular natural scenery. You’ll also discover quaint stone villages, pastoral traditions that are still very much alive, and historical sites, such as ancient Roman roads. Not to mention the famous espigueiros: those granaries on stilts called “horreos” in Galicia that we’ve told you so much about and love so much. It was actually funny because, even though we were still in Portugal, it immediately transported us back to the Galician atmosphere that’s so dear to us.

Hike to Pincães Waterfall

We entered Peneda-Gerês National Park from the southeast (we were coming from the Douro Valley). For our first stop, we decided to take a nice little hike to a waterfall: the Pincães Waterfall.

This hike is really easy and doesn’t present any particular challenges, but the reward at the end is truly incredible!!! Starting from the small village of Pincães, we followed a relatively well-marked trail that runs mostly alongside an artificial watercourse. In Switzerland, we’d call this a bisse (you can find out what a bisse is here).

The hike is 1.6 km long with a 120-meter elevation gain (one way), and at the end you come to a magnificent waterfall where you can swim. In the reviews of the hike, we had seen that the spot could get quite crowded during the summer months, but in October we were practically alone in the world (we didn’t run into anyone during the hike, and at the waterfall there was just one other couple with their dog).

All in all, the hike, the picnic at the waterfall, and the swim took us less than two and a half hours. So it’s perfect for a quick stop to enjoy the area without too much effort. 😉

Map of the hike:

The Fafião Viewpoint

After our hike to the waterfall, we set off toward the Ermida Gerês campground. But of course, we decided to take advantage of the drive to make a few scenic stops along the way. 🙂 The first stop we recommend is the small village of Fafião. The village itself isn’t particularly special, but a few hundred meters above it lies a magnificent viewpoint offering a breathtaking view of the Fafião River valley—a particularly wild and undeveloped area of the Peneda-Gerês National Park.

The hillsides are covered with vegetation typical of northern Portugal, dominated by oak trees, heather, and broom (the broom is particularly photogenic in the spring… since we came here in the fall, we didn’t get to see it in bloom, but it was still very pretty!). The lack of urban development is striking: there are very few buildings in sight, which reinforces the impression of a place that has remained untouched.

The Pigarreira Bridge

Just below the lookout point (back on the road) is the Pigarreira Bridge. The bridge itself isn’t particularly “remarkable,” but the area is absolutely stunning, offering easy access to numerous natural pools just a stone’s throw from the road. A trail allows you to take a short loop (about 20 minutes) and discover the crystal-clear colors of the water.

The Fecha de Barjas Waterfall

Our last stop of the day was the Fecha de Barjas waterfall. Located just 2 km past the Pigarreira Bridge, this place is truly incredible! It’s hard to imagine that such a landscape awaits us when we pull over into one of the few parking spots along the road. The spot seems very popular during peak season (the rocks leading to the waterfall are completely worn smooth by the constant flow of swimmers!) and its name is often mentioned in articles about the park.

The Fecha de Barjas waterfall isn’t really “a single” waterfall, but rather a series of cascades that flow into small, terraced natural pools. The path down to the base of the waterfalls is (very) steep, and we strongly recommend wearing sneakers rather than flip-flops (even if you plan to go swimming). 😉

Hiking at Poço Azul do Gerês

This is most likely the most famous hike in the national park, and generally speaking, people are often a bit reluctant to tackle “the most famous hike.” But given how few people we encountered in the park, we set off feeling fairly confident. Well, let’s also mention that we left relatively early… it must have been 8 a.m. when we arrived at the parking lot! We wanted to make sure we avoided the crowds but also spared ourselves the hottest hours of the day for hiking. And honestly, we made the right call!!! We came across exactly two other people the entire morning (and that was almost as we were arriving at the parking lot on the way back)!

The trail isn’t difficult at all, and the hike is relatively short (8.5 km round trip with about 300 meters of elevation gain and loss). All in all, the hike took us about three hours, and upon arrival we were rewarded with a magnificent natural pool of an absolutely incredible color! Of course, Benoit couldn’t resist the urge to take a dip. As for me, I played it safe and just enjoyed the view… Well, yes, although it’s gorgeous, the water is also really cold!

The hike is so well-known mainly because of the natural pool, but I have to say that the entire route is really lovely and, above all, very varied. We cross fields of granite boulders several times, the vegetation around us is incredible, and best of all: we’re completely alone in the world!

Practical information:

The hike starts at a large dirt parking lot accessible via a well-maintained trail. The road is a bit bumpy in places, but it’s easily manageable in a van. If you’d rather not drive on the trail, you can park near the Mirador das Rocas and walk the last stretch (you’ll also pass by the waterfall mentioned below).

Arado Falls

On our way back from the hike, we made a quick stop by the side of the road to check out the Arado Waterfall (it’s 200 meters from the trailhead parking lot). No hike required here—the waterfall is just 50 meters from the road. 😉 The spot is truly idyllic, and we have no doubt it’s a popular swimming spot in the summer.

Fun Fact: While we were taking a photo of the waterfall, we saw a group of canyoners coming down from the top of the falls (you can actually see them at the top of the waterfall in the photo opposite). We’ll admit, we hadn’t even considered this activity during our stay here, but it looked like a ton of fun! In short, if you like canyoning, know that it’s 100% possible to do it in Peneda Gerês National Park.

The Pedra Bela Lookout

After these lovely discoveries, it was already time for us to head toward Galicia. So we hit the road again, heading north, but before leaving Portugal for good (this time), we made one last quick stop at the Pedra Bela viewpoint.

The Miradouro da Pedra Bela is one of the most accessible viewpoints in Peneda-Gerês National Park. It’s easy to reach by car (you can park right next to it) and features a viewing platform. The view opens up to the Caniçada reservoir, the hills, and a large part of the park. It’s a quick stop, but well worth a look.

Accommodations in Peneda Gerês National Park

For many people, Peneda Gerês National Park is a day trip from Porto. Don’t get me wrong—it’s definitely a great day trip—but if you have the chance, I highly recommend staying in the area for 2–3 days to really enjoy it.

If you’re interested in taking an organized tour from Porto, you’ll find plenty of options on Getyourguide, but at the risk of repeating myself, I really think it’s worth staying here for at least 1–2 nights.

When visiting Peneda-Gerês National Park, your choice of accommodation depends mainly on your itinerary and the kind of experience you’re looking for.

The Gerês area is the most convenient, especially for a first-time visit. With good transportation links, it offers easy access to the park’s main attractions, along with a wide range of lodging options and restaurants. It’s the ideal base for exploring the area without having to worry too much about logistics.

For a more authentic atmosphere, the villages of Soajo and Lindoso are a good choice. Less touristy, they offer a chance to explore traditional architecture and enjoy superb hikes in a more unspoiled setting.

Finally, for a complete immersion in nature, the areas around Fafião or Ermida (pictured above) are perfect. More secluded, these areas offer direct access to some of the park’s most beautiful wilderness spots, including waterfalls and remote valleys.

To find the right place for you, use the map below. Feel free to zoom in or out to expand or narrow your search.

The Ermida Gerês Campground

In the national park, wild camping is obviously not allowed. For this trip, we stayed at the Ermida Gerês campground. It’s a rather unusual campground where, during the off-season, you check in independently by making an online payment through the website. It has a slightly odd vibe, but honestly, it’s a good deal for spending a few days in the national park.

The campground’s biggest selling point is definitely its location, just a stone’s throw from the Poço Azul hike and the Arado Waterfall. If you don’t have a car or a tent, the campground also offers bungalows or pre-pitched tents at a fairly reasonable price (they’re basic but adequate). Check it out on Booking

There’s also a small (very basic) grocery store in the village where you can buy a few basic food items. It’s not really a supermarket, so it’s best to arrive with some supplies, but we were able to pick up two cold beers and some chips for an aperitif, as well as a few vegetables for our picnic the next day.

Note: When heading to the campground, be very careful not to blindly follow your GPS… I’ll let you guess how we know that… But seriously, if you’re coming from the east, don’t turn right onto Rua Agua de Perreira! The road looks wider on maps, but it’s a tiny street where it’s impossible to pass (or turn around). We ended up backing up quite a distance when we got stuck in the narrow streets of Ermida. 😉 The best way to get to the campground is to go up Rua do Seco (by van, access is also possible from Rua de Ermida).

We hope you enjoyed this article. It was just a quick getaway, and we have no doubt that we’ll definitely be back here someday to stay a little longer! Well, yes, Galicia is kind of our little corner of paradise, and there’s no doubt in our minds that we’ll be back. Except this time, we won’t hesitate to cross the border to continue exploring northern Portugal, which is full of hidden gems!

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