Backpacking China

China was the first country we visited on our round-the-world trip, and it remains an absolute favorite. This country truly touched our hearts and left a lasting impression—we'll definitely be back! Beyond being the place where Ben proposed, China is a country that genuinely got under our skin. On this page, you'll find all the practical information you need to plan your future trip. At the end, you'll discover all the articles we wrote during our 2.5-month journey. Happy reading!

Map of China

In total, we traveled for nearly 10 weeks. That might sound like a lot, but when you consider the size of the country, we barely scratched the surface! In fact, if you do the math based on land area, spending 2.5 months in China is equivalent to a Chinese tourist spending just 7 hours in Switzerland!

To see all the articles we wrote about this massive country, click the button below to display the China map with all posts organized geographically.

Show the map

The best time to visit China

If there's one period to absolutely avoid, it's Golden Week—the week-long holiday following China's National Day on October 1st! To be completely honest, we stayed locked in our hostel because there were crowds everywhere. Accommodation is fully booked weeks in advance, public transport and streets are packed, and prices are inflated... In short, don't plan to travel in early October if you can help it! Otherwise, the rest of the year is great for all activities. Keep in mind that July and August see the peak of tourist season.

Climate-wise, China is divided into roughly 4 regions:

• Northwest: We didn't visit this part of the country. It has the most extreme weather conditions with very hot summers and very cold winters. Precipitation is minimal throughout the year.
• Northeast: This is the Beijing region! Expect hot and humid weather in summer and cold temperatures in winter with little rain. In our opinion, April, May, and October (after Golden Week) are ideal for visiting the Chinese capital!

• Southwest: The climate of Tibet and western Sichuan is directly influenced by the Himalayan mountains. No surprise here—it's cold year-round, with temperatures not exceeding 20°C even in summer, along with high humidity. We were there in September and the weather was perfect: cold mainly at night, and we had no rain.
• Southeast: In Hong Kong, Sichuan, and Yunnan (Kunming, Lijiang, Shangri-La...), the climate is tropical/subtropical with much milder temperatures than the rest of the country. However, this region also experiences monsoons during summer. Therefore, spring and autumn are again when the weather is optimal for travel. For the Yuanyang rice terraces, though, the best time is late winter around March/April when the terraces are flooded.

Our backpacking itinerary

China is an incredibly diverse country, rich in landscapes and with fantastic cities to discover! We spent 2.5 months there in total—here's the itinerary we followed and our suggestions for improvement.

Note: Please excuse the sometimes slightly random placement of certain regions on the map—we did our best! ;)

• 6 days in Beijing, including 2 days on the Great Wall: We spent just under a week in the Chinese capital, and we believe a minimum of 4 days is necessary to see the essentials as well as some hidden gems. Check out our detailed 6-day visit guide featuring: the must-see historic center and Forbidden City, the Summer Palace, the Temple of Heaven, the 798 Art Zone, and the iconic Great Wall of China!
• 5 days in Xi'an: Have you heard of the Terracotta Army? It's a must-see on any trip to China, and we highly recommend the visit! In addition to this museum, be sure to explore the city and the surrounding areas. Don't miss Mount Hua, one of China's 5 sacred mountains, with rather dizzying hiking trails and breathtaking views!

• 5 days in Chengdu: China is famous for its giant pandas, and the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding is perfect for seeing these adorable balls of fluff! The city also has other attractions: the Giant Buddha, Sichuan Opera, Mount Emei...
• 6 days in Emei: If you want to work your thighs and glutes, Mount Emei is ideal! Sure, 60,000 steps can be intimidating, but this trek takes you off the beaten path and away from crowds for total immersion in the unique atmosphere that reigns on the mountain's slopes.
• 10 days in western Sichuan, or how to easily travel to Tibet: This region is often overlooked, but in our opinion, it's the best way to discover the Tibetan plateau without dealing with the administrative procedures for entering Tibet. We did a memorable 3-day trek (and what can we say about the landscapes!).

• 3 days in Tiger Leaping Gorge: Another trek, but this time in the world's deepest canyon. Take the High Trail and walk away from crowds between mountains reaching nearly 5,400m altitude!
• 3 days in Shaxi: Still in Yunnan, Shaxi is a small historic village worth the detour. The Friday ethnic market, the old town and its ancient theater, Shibaoshan Temple, and the surrounding area are things not to miss!
• 4 days in the Yuanyang rice terraces: Although we've seen others since, the Yuanyang rice terraces remain among the most beautiful we've seen in our entire lives! (Don't miss the incredible sunrises and sunsets!) The site has become somewhat touristy, but it's possible to find quieter spots without too many travelers. Stay at least 3 days to ensure good weather conditions!

• 2 days in Guilin: This stop was a pleasant surprise for us! To appreciate this city, staying in the old town is ideal. Stroll through the pedestrian streets, visit Elephant Trunk Hill, admire the illuminated pagodas once night falls, etc. It's also the starting point for visiting Xingping and the Longji rice terraces.
• 4 days in Xingping: People often talk about Yangshuo as an essential destination in the Guilin region for admiring the characteristic karst peaks. We preferred the tranquility of Xingping to visit the various viewpoints of the karst peaks around the village, take a cruise on the Li River on a bamboo raft, and enjoy the surrounding hiking trails.

• 2 days in the Longji rice terraces: We didn't have the same luck with the weather as in Yuanyang, but the Longji rice terraces are just as beautiful, if not even larger! Hiking trails crisscross the site, whether you want to walk for a few hours or several days!
• 3 days in Canton: To close our China trip, we spent 3 days in China's 3rd largest city! Also known as Guangzhou, it has many attractions, blending modernity and history. Don't miss Shamian Island with its colonial buildings, the authentic Qingping market, Mount Baiyun, the Sacred Heart Cathedral of Canton (nicknamed the "Notre-Dame of the East"), and especially the food! Canton is renowned for its gastronomy, and Cantonese cuisine is the most famous and reputed in Asia! In short, it's time to taste everything and treat yourself ;). Find all activities on this site!

As you can see, we only covered a tiny part of the country. So we still have plenty to see for a future trip!

3 weeks in China: the itinerary

Do you have 3 weeks to travel through China? Then we really recommend focusing on 1 or 2 regions for your stay. The distances are truly significant, and even taking domestic flights, fitting our itinerary into less than a month seems too optimistic.

Regions like Yunnan and Sichuan combine very well for a circuit and are truly superb regions!

To the 2 itineraries below, add at least 4 days in Beijing, including 2 dedicated to visiting the Great Wall, and 2 days in Xi'an. You can take a flight from Beijing to Xi'an or take an express train or an overnight train to optimize travel time.

3 weeks in Yunnan

• 2 days in Kunming: Kunming is a stop for visiting the Stone Forest of Shilin! A UNESCO World Heritage site, get lost in the labyrinth formed by these stunning karst formations that seem to come out of nowhere! Allow a good half-day with travel time. Other interesting sites in Kunming include Yuantong Temple, the Golden Temple, and Dianchi Lake and its surroundings. Book your tickets and activities in Kunming online.
• 2 days in Dali: People either love or hate Dali... Yet it has everything going for it on paper: a paved old town, the 3 pagodas of the magnificent Chongsheng Temple, and the city of Weishan, a preserved place far from Dali's crowds.

• 3 days in Shaxi: Don't miss Shaxi, a historic crossroads on the Tea Horse Road between Tibet and southwest China. We fell in love with this village that's home to many ethnic groups. Wander through the center around the 700-year-old theater and Xingjiao Temple, and visit the Friday ethnic market. Then head to Shibaoshan Temple, a beautiful village carved into the cliff.
• 3 days in Lijiang: Take 1 day to visit the UNESCO-listed old town and get lost in its alleyways before heading to Black Dragon Pool Park. The next day, explore the authentic surrounding villages, away from Lijiang's tourists: Shuhe, Baisha, and Yuhu. Finally, if you're not planning to do the Tiger Leaping Gorge, go hiking on Jade Dragon Snow Mountain or visit the incredible colors of Blue Moon Valley.

• 3 days in Tiger Leaping Gorge: Another trek, but this time in the world's deepest canyon! Take the High Trail and walk away from crowds between mountains reaching nearly 5,400m altitude!
• 3 days in the Yuanyang rice terraces: Although we've seen others since, the Yuanyang rice terraces remain among the most beautiful we've seen in our entire lives! (Don't miss the magnificent sunrises and sunsets!) The site has become somewhat touristy, but it's possible to find quieter spots without too many travelers. Stay at least 3 days to ensure good weather conditions!

3 weeks in Sichuan

• 3 days in Chengdu: China is famous for its giant pandas, and the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding is perfect for seeing these adorable balls of fluff! The city also has other attractions: the Giant Buddha, Sichuan Opera, Mount Emei...
• 3 days on Mount Emei via the Leshan Giant Buddha: If you want to work your thighs and glutes, Mount Emei is ideal! Sure, 60,000 steps can be intimidating, but this trek takes you off the beaten path and away from crowds for total immersion in the unique atmosphere on the mountain's slopes.

• 4 days in the Tibetan part of Sichuan: This region is often overlooked, but in our opinion, it's the best way to discover the Tibetan plateau without dealing with the administrative procedures for entering Tibet. We did a memorable 3-day trek (and what can we say about the landscapes!).
• 3 days in Jiuzhaigou Valley: This is probably THE park to visit in China. Located on the Tibetan plateau, the valley is simply magical with its crystal-clear waters, countless waterfalls... In short, it's a totally enchanting setting! It's highly recommended to book your ticket in advance—it sells out several days or even weeks ahead!

Organized tours

We organized our entire trip ourselves, but China can sometimes be a bit intimidating, especially if it's your first major trip. We're familiar with the Evaneos travel agency, and if you're looking for a trustworthy agency, we recommend them wholeheartedly! They work exclusively with local guides and guarantee that the price you pay through them is the same as going directly through the guide.

We actually met one of the guides Evaneos works with during our visit to Kunming without even knowing it. We wanted information about Yunnan and had emailed him. Rather than responding virtually, Yan suggested we go out for dinner together. You have to admit that's really nice!

He speaks excellent French and wanted to practice a bit. It was a great meeting, and Yan gave us very good advice about Yunnan.

Honestly, if you're looking for a guide, we highly recommend him.

Compare China tours

How to get to China?

With over 40 international airports, it's easy to reach any region of China from anywhere! While Beijing seems like a logical first stop on an itinerary, other major Chinese cities are just as feasible given the minimal price variations between flights. A Paris-Beijing or Paris-Chengdu flight costs €500, while a Paris-Xi'an flight costs €515. In short, if you want to skip Beijing, it's totally possible and won't impact your budget!

Border crossing between Laos and China

By land, there's only one place to cross the border between Laos and China—at Boten, and you'll arrive in the village of Mohan. However, you'll easily find trains and buses between major cities, like Luang Prabang and Kunming, for example.

Border crossing between Vietnam and China

From Sapa in Vietnam, it's very easy to cross the Chinese border by going to Lao Cai to arrive at Hekou. If you're in the Hanoi area, the nearest border post is in the northeast, at Dong Dang, to arrive at Youyi Guan in China.

Travel budget

Budget-wise, China is probably slightly more expensive than Southeast Asian countries, though... But it's also a country with significant differences between regions!

For our part, our itinerary took us to cities like Beijing, Xi'an, Canton, Chengdu, and Guilin—touristy places but quite affordable. On the other hand, we didn't visit Shanghai or Shenzhen, known to be more expensive. In short, your budget will depend heavily on the region, your activities, and your accommodation.

In China, the official currency is the renminbi (RMB), better known as the yuan (CNY). The current exchange rate is €1 = 8.3 RMB. The currency has been fairly stable over the past 10 years—check the current rate before your trip!

Withdrawing yuan is quite easy. You can withdraw up to 3,000 yuan per withdrawal (€361), and Bank of China ATMs are probably the safest for foreign cards. Also, don't trust the Visa and Mastercard logos plastered on ATMs—your cards might be refused like ours were!

Tip: When withdrawing money, you'll probably be offered the option to apply the bank's exchange rate or process the transaction in euros: this is dynamic conversion. In all cases, refuse because it will always be disadvantageous for you.

Finally, to limit banking fees, make sure you don't have fees with your bank, or subscribe to an online bank like N26.

To give you an idea, we spent an average of €22 per day per person.

A few remarks, however:

• The accommodation budget is relatively low. Of our 67 nights in China, we spent 10 nights couchsurfing and 5 nights on trains/buses.
• We crossed China from north to south, making detours to the west... In short, lots of travel in 2 months, hence a relatively high average transportation budget.
• The food category is proportionally a bit higher. Generally, when we couchsurf, we don't pay for the night but try to treat our hosts by preparing good meals. Let's just say that buying special items like Swiss cheese sold at premium prices really hits the budget!
• We didn't include our backpacking trip to Hong Kong.
• In short, the distributions will probably be a bit different depending on the type of trip, but the overall idea is accurate. Check out our article on travel budgets for details on costs by region.

See our detailed China budget

China visa - how to apply

Want to go to China? Then you'll absolutely need a visa! And I'm sorry to tell you, but getting a Chinese visa isn't completely straightforward... Nothing dramatic, I assure you, but between online agencies charging a fortune and embassy and consulate websites being as old as Methuselah, it's not a walk in the park...

For several years, consular visa services have been replaced by visa centers. It's a private company recognized by the embassy that manages all applications, and the embassy simply validates or rejects visas.

From 2024 until December 31, 2025, over 70 nationalities are exempt from visa requirements for stays under 30 days. Europe, Asia, and South America benefit the most from this policy. However, citizens of the United States, United Kingdom, Canada, Czech Republic, Lithuania, Sweden, Ukraine, Indonesia, and Mexico only have an exemption for transits under 10 days (G visa). So, if you're planning to spend more than 10 days in mainland China, you'll need to apply for a tourist visa (L visa).

Mainland China refers to all Chinese territory excluding Hong Kong and Macau, which don't require a visa (visa exemption for up to 90 days).

Note: To enter China, your passport must be valid for at least 6 months after your departure date from Chinese territory. The L visa is renewable up to 2 times maximum.

Visa application

The process varies depending on your country. Are you American or Lithuanian? Then head to the COVA website (Chinese Visa Online Application Form), the official Chinese site for visa applications. For everyone else, the process is the same: you'll need to go to this official website to complete an online pre-verification to obtain your visa application form. After that, you'll need to visit the nearest visa center to submit your documents. Let us walk you through all the steps!

• Select your country and the city where you'll submit your application.
• Create an account and follow the steps.
• To complete this pre-verification, you'll need to submit documents along with the form: a photocopy of your passport, an ID photo, a round-trip flight reservation, etc. We'll detail all these documents below.
• Finally, once your application is received and confirmed, either show up or make an appointment at your chosen visa center (this varies by center). They'll remind you to bring all necessary documents (original or copies). Processing takes about 6 business days. To receive your visa and get your passport back, you can either return to the visa center or have them sent via express mail, though that costs extra.

Note: You can use agencies that handle all the paperwork for you, but it's more expensive. For example, if you see a price over $140 USD (or €111), you know you're dealing with a third-party agency.

Required documents

To validate your visa application, you'll need to provide certain items depending on your nationality. Generally speaking, you'll need to gather:

• The official visa application form you've already completed
• A photocopy and original of your passport (note: the passport must contain at least 2 blank facing pages, essentially a double page)
• An ID photo meeting Chinese standards (it will be indicated)
• Proof of travel insurance covering the stay: yes, having travel insurance is mandatory to travel in China! To navigate the numerous market offers, we recommend this travel insurance comparison.
• A copy of your entry and exit tickets: plane tickets or train tickets, doesn't matter. They just want proof you're entering and have planned to leave the territory!
• Hotel reservations in China with complete contact details or a certificate of accommodation. During our trip, we had booked nights with hotels that cancel reservations without fees. Once we had the visa, we cancelled everything, and once there, we managed accommodations as we went, booking 1-2 days in advance based on our schedule. But honestly, we didn't get the impression they looked at that...
• Details of your planned trip in an Excel table: this one, I won't hide, was freestyle... Basically, they want a list of your day-by-day program. For our visa application, we made something random like Day 1-4, visit Beijing center, Day 5-6: visit the Great Wall at Jinshanling... In short, no need to stick to the schedule you indicated. So don't hesitate to be a bit creative while staying realistic!
• An employment contract or your last 3 bank statements: they want proof you can afford to travel (at least €1,000 in your account) and especially that you have something waiting for you at home.

Special case of Tibet

If you plan to travel to Tibet, you must have special authorization (Tibet Travel Permit) in addition to the visa. It's issued by travel or tourism agencies holding a government license. Plan your Tibet stay at least 15 days before the expected date, giving the agency time to complete administrative procedures and for your permit to arrive at your hotel.

Vaccinations needed for China

No vaccinations are mandatory before traveling to China. However, the following vaccines are recommended:

• Hepatitis A and B;
• Japanese encephalitis if staying outside major cities;
• Tick-borne encephalitis if staying outside major cities and in the northeast or northwest;
• Rabies;
• Typhoid.

For the latest health information, visit the website of the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

Note: China requires yellow fever vaccination if you're coming from an endemic area or if you've transited for more than 12 hours in an airport from one of the countries on this list.

Getting around China by public transport

To learn everything about different means of transportation, we wrote a complete article on how to get around by plane, bus, and train across China. We wrote it at the end of our stay and gave all our best advice there.

Read the article

Remember to install a VPN before leaving

Internet access in China is an important issue. Internet censorship is still very present in China today, with over 18,000 blocked sites. These include gaming and pornographic sites, of course, but also less expected content like the New York Times or Spotify.

Planning to use Instagram, Facebook, Google/Gmail, YouTube, or WhatsApp during your stay? If you want to surf freely on the internet in China, we recommend using a VPN. ExpressVPN is the service we've subscribed to for many years. We continued using it outside China, especially to secure our connections when on public wifi.

Note: Since VPN sites are blocked there, the VPN must be installed before entering Chinese territory!

Essential Mandarin words

No matter what country you visit, it's always appreciated to know a few words in the local language. Here are the absolute basics of Mandarin for asking basic everyday things.

Festivals not to miss

Given China's large population, keep the dates of public holidays and national festivals in mind when planning your itinerary to avoid unpleasant surprises, especially regarding transportation and accommodation bookings.

• January-February: Spanning 15 days, the Chinese New Year or Spring Festival is the country's biggest traditional celebration! It takes place between January 21 and February 20 to celebrate the first day of the new moon. Each new year is associated with a Chinese zodiac animal. To celebrate, families gather across the country, and parades and fireworks are organized everywhere. Although it's the low tourist season, it's an event that must be really cool to experience as a traveler! Traditionally, the Chinese New Year concludes with the Lantern Festival, where everyone goes out into the streets at nightfall with a lantern.
• May: The Great Wall of China Marathon is one of the most scenic marathons in the world! It's on the Huangyaguan section that this legendary running event takes place. For beginners, there's also an 8.5 km race. Attention, enthusiasts! For more information, visit the official website.
• May-June: On the 5th day of the 5th lunar month, the Dragon Boat Festival (Duānwǔ Jié) or Double Fifth Festival takes place. Races of wooden boats carved in the shape of dragons are organized on all the country's major rivers for a colorful event! If you're in China during this period, don't miss tasting zongzi, traditional triangular sticky rice cakes wrapped in bamboo leaves.
• September: The Mid-Autumn Festival (Zhōngqiūujié) or Moon Festival is another important celebration in China, taking place on the 15th day of the 8th lunar month. It's an occasion for Chinese people to gather, admire the moon, eat mooncakes (the same as in Vietnam, for example), and participate in folk events (lantern parades...).
• October: National Day in China is October 1st, the date of the creation of the People's Republic of China in 1949. Festivities take place throughout the country: fireworks, parades, cultural celebrations, etc. It's followed by a week-long holiday—the famous Golden Week. October is a good time to travel, but avoid the first week of October as much as possible—there are crowds everywhere! That's why we stayed locked up for 7 days in our Kunming hostel!

Chinese gastronomy on your trip

Chinese cuisine is very probably the most "exported" in the world. No matter where we live, we all have at least one Chinese restaurant near us! Although Chinese restaurants are common in France or Switzerland, I'll let you in on a secret: Chinese cuisine in China has little to do with what we find back home :)!

Overall, we ate extremely well during our trip, even if we often didn't understand what we had on our plate haha. In fact, we wrote the 10 commandments of Chinese cuisine so you're prepared for what awaits you!

General information

But do they really eat dog?

Yes, you can find it... But rest assured, dog is a delicacy, so there's little chance it'll be served to you without your knowledge. This meat costs much more than pork or beef!

Otherwise, Chinese gastronomy consists of lots of vegetables, quite a bit of fried food, but especially animal parts we're not necessarily used to eating. In China, when they slice chicken, they don't just take the breast like we do! The cut is much more radical, and bones are part of the service. Nothing is wasted, and everything is eaten! :)

The other most surprising thing about Chinese dishes? It's SPICY!!! Mamma mia, for some dishes (especially in Sichuan and Yunnan) we were in tears throughout the meal! And a small note, when it's (very) spicy, it tends to sting twice... #JustSaying :)

Dishes not to miss

• Chinese hot pot: This is THE symbolic dish of China! You'll probably see several versions, especially if traveling in different regions. The most classic consists of dipping different ingredients (vegetables, meat, tofu, noodles...) into a clear broth and more or less spicy broth, depending on where you are.
• Shaanxi and Chengdu specialties: Chengdu is considered a true gastronomic destination, and we can only advise you to taste the typical dishes, in addition to visiting the panda center ;).

• Dim sum: You won't miss dim sum—these small steamed bites are very popular! Often enjoyed with tea, they're filled with meat or vegetables.
• Baozi: How to resist these small stuffed steamed buns you'll find at street food stands? The fillings are very varied: vegetables, pork, chicken...

• Jian bing: Another flagship dish of Chinese street food, jianbing are delicious small egg-based crepes with onions, red beans, and coriander.
• Mooncakes: We mentioned them above—these cakes are traditionally made and served during the Mid-Autumn Festival. These pastries consist of flour, egg, and red beans or pineapple, for a savory or sweet version.

Internet and Wifi

The first thing to know about the internet in China is that to access your favorite sites while traveling, you'll need a VPN. We already mentioned it above, but censorship (the Great Firewall) blocks many sites, and only by subscribing to a VPN can you use the internet as you please, using public Wifis (airport, hotels, shopping centers...).

Buying a local SIM card or an eSIM is rather a good idea—connecting to public Wifi often requires SMS confirmation. Moreover, having a Chinese number and 5G access will help you use local apps (DiDi or Uber's equivalent, WeChat...), navigate streets, translate visually or vocally, etc. Also, the vast majority of services use phone numbers as identifiers.

Useful resources for planning your China trip

• The Point It book really helped us during our trip! It's actually a picture book made for communicating while traveling. Well, honestly, with all the technology and Google Translate, it's definitely easier today!
• For travel guides, we left with the Lonely Planet China and were very happy (though for hotels, we trusted online reviews more).